Conan: To crush your enemies, see them driven before you, and to hear the lamentation of their women!
Mongol General: That is good! That is good!!!
(general drunken cheers can be heard coming from the surrounding Mongol warriors)
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Suspension... out.
Derailleurs... out.
26" wheels... out.
Inner tubes... still in.
For those of you regular followers of the Sticki Chronicles, you have a pretty good understanding that I generally can't leave well enough alone for very long. The Raleigh has been performing perfectly. The friendly Kermit green color and paint matched rims has been drawing attention to my steed from miles away. Despite it's low cost and utmost simplicity, I always seem to be finding myself involved in conversations about how I was liking this bike, which has usually been followed with scowled ponderings as to why.
But... I got bored with it (as usual).
Such a happy-go-lucky big roller:
Enter the Warhammer
That's enough of the powderpuff mentality. I have figured out that 29 equals good. I have realized what I need and don't need to have fun on the trail. Time to get to work. Down to business. Sure, riding should still be all about having a good time, getting out there with friends and beating gravity into a bloody pulp of submission with knobby tires and quads of steel. But I kept asking myself what might happen if I could get this bike to be even more simplified or if that was even possible.
I yearned for something even more reduced, lackluster, anti-hero, black, gray, brutal, plain, ugly...
Amazing what a little paint, or obvious lack of, can do to the character of a bicycle. The bubbly little wonder puppy of a 29'r I had fallen in love with over the last few months was now to become a completely new creature. One that would sit their brooding in the corner of the garage, seemingly angered by the fact it's not out crushing mountains or carving corners. It would look evil just sitting still.
Of course... cosmetic fury wasn't the only change I planned to make.
In my opinion, you can't build a bike for serious work without upgrading performance were possible. After my Shimano freehub blowout a few summers ago climbing up T401, I had become more aware of how critical that generally forgotten ratcheting connection is in relation to torque and forward motion. Being that this Raleigh originally came with just a simple set of nameless hubs, I considered it to be only a matter of time before a second catastrophic failure could occur. Odd creaks and occasional pops were getting more regular when my drive train was under load, so I created the preemptive solution with a new wheelset.
Hubs: Hope Pro II, black, 32 hole (singlespeed specific rear)
Bulletproof 4 pawl, 48 point engagement:
These were laced to a pair of Stan's Arch rims using 32 DT double butted (2.0/1.8) spokes and alloy Wheelsmith nipples... anodized gold for obvious reasons.
Finished front:
Finished rear:
Those of you out their with an eagle eye and technical prowess will notice that I used Stan's Olympic tape to cover the spoke holes. That combined with Stan's model specific valve stems should have allowed me to give tubeless yet another valiant try.
Tubeless compatible rim... check
Tubeless compatible rim strip... check.
Tubeless compatible valve stem... check.
Here is where I "cheated", and before I type the rest of this sentence it will be known that I failed to make this system work yet again. I tried to dry inflate my standard Geax Saguaro tires on to the rim to see if the bead would seal. I was using the folding version with the Aramid 3D casing and a floor pump. No dice what so ever. The tire didn't even think of seating the bead. Perhaps with an air compressor I might have had a chance... but I don't have one, nor would I have one on the trail. Since I seem to think if I need to be able to repair my tire in the field without a compressor this whole system seems deeply flawed if I can not achieve the initial inflation within the quiet solitude of my garage.
So... for now.... I am still rocking the tubes.
Beyond wheels I made some additional upgrades using parts from my now dismantled Salsa Moto Rapido. Luckily for me, a majority of this already owned upgrade was anodized gold which of would of course give me access to almost unmeasurable speed. I did however spring for a stainless Surly seat clamp to go with my bare steel frame.
Power ring activate:
Only problem was after two shakedown rides the only thing this Surly clamp seemed to hold on to was the frame itself. I easily lost an inch of exposed post on each trip before I was back to the car. Unacceptable and despite my best efforts to apply more torque to a fully greased bolt, I achieved no better results... so that part was ejected into the forgotten parts bin. I give the clamp a 0 out of 5 monkeys, or chilis, or stars.... or whatever. Junk.
The first thing I had to do before this reboot would ever happen was to get rid of the factory green. With my years of cost cutting frame refinishing I have learned a few tricks. First and most important, make sure your frame is painted and not powdercoated. Once that's been established, drive right past your neighborhood hardware store and stop at the first automotive supply you come across. Walk in and get a can of aircraft paint remover. Go home, get outside with plenty of ventilation as well as body protection and apply.
Green go bye-bye:
Much to my delight, the paint Raleigh had chosen was as close to watercolor as I have ever seen. Within seconds from the first application, 90% of the finish was reduced to a crumpled sticky goo. Within a few attempts I was down to bare steel. Only took a little elbow grease on the stubborn nooks and crannies before the true character of the ferrous metal was visible once again.
This was the first time I had actually taken the entire bike apart. I had been wondering what the eccentric aluminum bottom bracket housing looked liked within the bottom bracket shell. I just figured it would be one huge somewhat uninteresting chuck of alloy. Much to my surprise, it was a bit more refined than that.
My EBB (cups still attached):
Did you know that when such a system is combined with a two-piece Shimano crank you can pull the entire assembly apart with just a 5mm and 6mm allen wrench? I didn't either... but am pretty excited about this maintenance fact now that I do.
Now having disassembled, cleaned, stripped, put back together, it was time to give the new build a try. Prepare to be filled with a state of awe and possible dread just as I was the first time I laid eyes upon it. Do not fear however, for you are safe. It is only the trail itself that has the need to be intimidated, for now the playing field has been leveled and I will fear each hill even less than before.
Terrain... meet your master.
Flow... meet your maker.
Purity... meet your source.
Conan would be so proud:
Barbaric:
Details, details:
Naked without:
Brazed:
Still single:
Headbadge withstood the remover:
The power of gold:
Now, before anyone begins to worry too deeply or feels compelled to inform me that exposed steel will rust... I already know.
But, this isn't my first stripped down rodeo. In fact, I have been commuting on my fixie with zero paint since it was built December of last year without issue. A bit of patina, but no evidence of rust. I do of course live and ride a majority of the time in AZ where moisture is of limited availability. If this Raleigh starts to rot, I'll just slap on a coat of paint to stop the corrosion. But for now, I am game to see how things progress.
There was only one last consideration to be made. How could I implement the fastest known color to mountain biking in the best way possible? Of course, I am no stranger to the rattle can, but I wanted something a bit more refined. I came up with the concept, "Three Points of White". At first I wasn't sure if I'd be able to handle all that power combined with triangulation. But initial tests have all proven positive, and I believe this theory may change the way cycling design evolves from this point forward. Plus, I had the stem and seat already and the pedals were on sale.
Point numero uno:
Point dos:
Point tres:
Why Spanish? Not sure. I guess thinking about how quick this new color concept will make me makes me think of how fast I will be able to go. With speed comes distance, and with greater distance comes hunger. Of course the only reasonable resolution to hunger is burrito. Makes perfect mathematical sense..
S + D / H = B
In a homage to my mid-90's mountain biking roots, I went ahead and weighed every part before and after just to see what I might be shaving besides the fufu green look. The following is probably more in depth than even the purest weight weenie would ever wish to go, but some may find it interesting none the less.
Sometimes every gram counts, and every 28 counts for an ounce, and every 16 gains a pound.
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Rims: 460/ 475g (advertised 470g)
Front Hub: 188g (advertised 185g)
Rear SS Hub (no spacers): 464g (advertised 361g)
Rear axle bolts: 75g
DT double butted spokes, 32 count (294mm): 207g
Wheelsmith alloy nipples, 32 count: 21g
29" tube: 210 g
Original rear Raleigh wheel: 1450g (with Salsa skewer)
New rear Hope wheel: 1140g (with axle bolts)
Difference: 310g [11 ounces]
Original front Raleigh wheel: 1145g (no skewer)
New front Hope wheel: 882g (no skewer)
Difference: 263 [9.4 ounces]
Salsa SS skewer: 50g
Salsa TI skewer: 40g
Difference: 10g
Original HS: 117g
Chris King HS: 98g
Difference: 19g
Original seatpost: 300g
Woodman seatpost: 190
Difference: 110g [3.9 ounces]
Raleigh fork: 1465g (painted) [3.27 lbs]
Raleigh fork: 1459g (un-painted)
Difference: 4g
Raleigh frame: 2350g (painted) [5.25 lbs]
Raleigh frame: 2322g (un-painted)
Difference: 28g
Total saved: 744 g [26.5 ounces or 1.7 pounds]
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All those upgrades for just under two pounds of weight savings. I did gain a lot of confidence in my drivetrain however and since a majority of the weight was saved with my wheels, I do get a quicker feel out on the trail when it comes to acceleration and climbing.
I found it amusing that I saved an ounce in paint alone. What I didn't find amusing is how far off the Hope hub weight was from advertised to reality. Almost a full 100 grams heavier to be precise. My guess is the unit they have listed is one that has been upgraded to a hollow axle to loose the bolts and use a skewer. Would be nice if they would offer the SS MTB version with an aluminum freehub as with the advent of wider based single cogs becoming the norm I think the likelihood of the splines getting chewed up is pretty low.
I did also learn that my steel fork is basically a two pronged anchor. Reliable, bulletproof, stout... all true. But I am tempted now more than ever to consider a Niner carbon fork upgrade, at least for race day applications.
Raleigh steel fork: 1459g [3.25 lbs]
Niner carbon fork: 550g [1.25 lbs]
Difference: 915g [2 lbs]
I know... carbon for a 29'r MTB fork seems sketchy, but check this Niner produced video out:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y_O9PLorYPA
What does it mean? Maybe I can blast through a group of aggressive hammer wielding carpenters hiking the trail and not worry about the integrity of my fork being compromised? Perhaps. But saving an additional 2lbs by fork alone might just be a bit hard to pass up.
If you hear a burning metallic whizz behind you and look back to what seems like a glance of the grim reapers 29'r getting ready to roll right through you, don't worry... I am a nicer guy than my barbaric rig will lead you to believe. I may snicker just a bit however if you've got one of those springy things helping you smooth out the bumps.
Rigid roll my friends... rigid roll!
I know... carbon for a 29'r MTB fork seems sketchy, but check this Niner produced video out:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y_O9PLorYPA
What does it mean? Maybe I can blast through a group of aggressive hammer wielding carpenters hiking the trail and not worry about the integrity of my fork being compromised? Perhaps. But saving an additional 2lbs by fork alone might just be a bit hard to pass up.
If you hear a burning metallic whizz behind you and look back to what seems like a glance of the grim reapers 29'r getting ready to roll right through you, don't worry... I am a nicer guy than my barbaric rig will lead you to believe. I may snicker just a bit however if you've got one of those springy things helping you smooth out the bumps.
Rigid roll my friends... rigid roll!
